Well, it could be. I’ve been meaning to make a matchbox weaving loom ever since writing my Borrowers zine, and today, I finally got around to it, and I even remembered to scan each step of the way:
Cut down to basics, all you need to do is:
- Snip notches at approx. 3mm intervals along the short edges of a 32ct matchbox tray. (My advice: mark it out first! I ended up with 7 notches, but an even number will work better when it comes to ‘finishing’/removing from loom.)
- Warp loom. I warped all the way from one end to the other, around the back of the loom and back to starting point. See finishing tips below for how the way you warp will affect your options.
- Use matches woven under and over alternate threads to adjust tension, as required. I removed the matchsticks as the weaving grew, so that I could weave all the way to the top of the loom.
- Weave! I used a (hand-dyed) variegated perle 5 cotton to get a stripy effect without having to change threads too often. Using a needle will help you when weaving. I used the needle I use for bookbinding, because it happened to be to-hand; but the book-binding needle is a sharp, and a blunt-ended tapestry needle would be far better advised! Visit my weaving freebies page for basic/additional weaving instructions.
- Removing your weaving from the loom will depend on how you have warped:
- If you have an even number of warps and warped all around the outside of the matchbox tray, snip across the threads in the centre of the matchbox reverse. Tie off warp threads in pairs, and trim to preferred length of fringe.
- If you warped your loom back and forth around notches (across front of loom only), carefully nudge loops off notches and thread onto matchsticks for a miniature wall-hanging.
Well, it entertained me, so hope you will enjoy this little (no pun intended 😉 ) project, too. Let me know if you try this out – would love to see pictures!